The W Trek in Torres del Paine National Park is one of the great hikes. Five days of glaciers, towers, and wind that tries to knock you sideways. This is everything I know from having done it wrong the first time and right the second.

What the W Trek Is

The "W" refers to the shape the route traces across the park. It covers approximately 80km over 4–5 days, with three main arms: the Valle del Francés (French Valley), the Glacier Grey approach, and the Mirador Las Torres (the towers viewpoint). Most hikers start from Punta Arenas, fly or bus to Puerto Natales, and catch the catamaran into the park.

Booking — Do It 6 Months Ahead

This cannot be overstated. CONAF (Chile's national parks service) strictly limits camping reservations in the park. The most popular campsites — Chileno (base of the towers), Paine Grande, and Refugio Los Cuernos — book out months in advance for the December–February high season. I've seen people turned away at the gate.

Book through CONAF's online system or through one of the approved operators (Vertice Patagonia, Fantastico Sur). Have a backup booking date ready before you start.

Day-by-Day Itinerary (West to East)

Day 1: Punta Arenas → Park Entrance → Paine Grande Camp (4–5 hrs hiking)

The catamaran from Pudeto drops you at Paine Grande. First day is a relatively gentle introduction along the shore of Lago Pehoé. The towers aren't visible yet — they're behind the massif. The wind starts here. It doesn't stop.

Day 2: Paine Grande → Glaciar Grey (5–6 hrs)

The Glacier Grey arm is the most visually dramatic day. The trail winds along the western shore of the grey glacier, past viewpoints where you can watch house-sized icebergs calve into the water. The mirador at the glacier face is one of the defining moments of the trek.

Day 3: Paine Grande → Valle del Francés → Los Cuernos (7–8 hrs)

The longest day. The French Valley ascent is steep and rewards with a hanging glacier and views of the horns (Los Cuernos) that give the park its iconic silhouette. Book the Los Cuernos refugio — it's the best accommodation on the route.

Day 4: Los Cuernos → Chileno Camp (4–5 hrs)

A shorter day to position you at the base of the towers. Rest. Your legs will thank you tomorrow.

Day 5: Chileno → Mirador Las Torres → Laguna Amarga exit (5–6 hrs)

The famous day. Leave Chileno at 4:30am for the 2-hour pre-dawn ascent to the mirador. The goal: arrive at the base of the towers as the first light hits the granite. When the pink dawn light catches the towers and reflects in the lake below, everything is worth it.

  • Best MonthsNovember–March (austral summer)
  • Total Distance~80km
  • DifficultyModerate to challenging
  • Park Entry Fee~$50 USD (foreigners)
  • Camping (per night)$10–40 depending on camp type
  • Book Ahead6 months minimum for Dec–Feb

Gear That Matters in Patagonia

The wind in Torres del Paine is unlike anything I've experienced elsewhere. 80km/h gusts are common; above 100km/h the park closes trails. Essential: a quality windproof outer layer (Patagonia or Arc'teryx level), waterproof gaiters, trekking poles (invaluable on the talus boulder sections), and a sleeping bag rated to at least -5°C even in summer. Everything in a dry bag inside your pack.